Exhaust from dust deputy then connects to inlet on vacuum.Hose from cabinet attaches to dust deputy.The included vacuum is quieter and performs better than the small shopvac I have for my HF blast cabinet. I have a 5 gallon bucket with a Dust Deputy in-line with the vacuum to help separate the rust etc before going to the main filter. The filter for this cabinet keeps my garage spotless. When opened, the trap door touches the blast media, not allowing for rapid draining of the system.I have to use a small plastic container and fill it up several times to drain the cabinet. The media trap door on the bottom of the cabinet is too low to the ground to slide a 5 gallon bucket under. I left my cabinet up on the pallet it was delivered on but I would still like it to be taller. I have to hunch over to get a bit my hands into the gauntlets. The cabinet needs another 8 or 10 inches of height to be comfortable for me. It would have been nice if it came this way though. This can be corrected by installing some jack nuts and replacing the self tapping screws with regular screws. Since these screws are self-tapping, replacing the film multiple times and removing and reinstalling these screws multiple times wears out the holes made by the screws. This is accomplished by removing the multiple sheet metal screws that squeeze the black plastic border against the glass to the cabinet. According to TP Tools the best way to change the protective layer is to completely remove the glass panel from the cabinet. Trying to replace the film by reaching inside the cabinet often results in the film not being applied squarely or one corner of the film not sticking to the glass because it wasn’t applied completely flat. It must be replaced regularly in order to see inside the cabinet well. This film is a sacrificial layer between the glass and the blasting area that prevents the glass from being etched by ricocheting media. One of the largest complaints I have is changing the protective mylar film on the inside of the window. While they don’t do as good of a job as the flood lights, they do help get rid of shadows when blasting parts at odd angles the flood lights can’t reach. I added additional lighting through some 12V LED strips to the inside of the cabinet. Wing nut screws and washers clamp the electrical box and light fixture to the cabinet.A standard electical box for turning on the outlets and light inside the cabinet.Although very simple, it’s very effective. A foam pad between the electrical box and the cabinet prevents blasting media. It’s a very simple approach, with off-the-shelf parts that can easily be replaced should they break. The light fixtures connect directly to the electrical box on the top of the blast cabinet. Two flood lights provides a lot of light!.I would not recommend switching them out with regular bulbs, the flood lights pierce through the media cloud much better with their directional light. In retrospect having 2 lights is necessary for blasting complex parts with lots of sides like valve covers and wheels. The 960-DLX comes with a flood light inside of each corner instead of 1 light in the 940-DLX. Dayton Freight dropping off the cabinet.I got it shipped via their LTL service who delivered it straight to my garage I originally ordered the 940-DLX, but due to what I assume was a mix-up at the TP Tools store I got shipped a 960-DLX. Due to the lack of online reviews of this company’s cabinets I would like to take an in-depth look at mine. I have been using my Skat Blast cabinet for almost 2 years now.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |